After breakfast, we leave Sibiu and drive through farmland and villages with colourfully-painted houses. Before long we can see the Tranfagarasan ridge of the Carpathians looming; on a clear day these snow-covered peaks look spectacular. We join the Transfagarasan Road – Romania’s highest pass and dubbed ‘best road in the world’ by Top Gear – as it climbs through pine forest on increasingly dramatic hairpin-bends. In winter the upper reaches are closed; we take it as far as the cable-car station.
These lower slopes are perfect for our snow-shoe introduction! Thick powdery snow covers the valley tracks, and we weave between snow-laden boughs as we explore this winter wonderland. The tranquility is broken only by the crunching of unspoiled snow; we are unlikely to meet other people. Back at the cable-car station, a 15-minute ride takes us above the treeline and through the open, exposed snow fields of this glacier-sculpted valley to Lake Balea. The lake itself is covered in thick ice and snow, and indistinguishable from the rest of this beautiful valley basin.
There will be time to check out the chapel and hotel, constructed every year from ice from the lake and, depending on time, explore the lake’s surroundings. We have dinner in the hotel of ice (and perhaps a warming glass of tuica, the local plum brandy) before bedding down for the night in our rooms carved out of thick ice – an incredible experience. Night hotel.
Drive approx. 1.5 hours; Trek / snowshoe approx. 3-4 hours
NB: Weather conditions will dictate snow-shoeing routes and locations, and may affect the night spent in the hotel of ice.